Today I interviewed some yachties from Canada. Donna and Mike sail an Oyster 56, Baccalieu III, and have Andy and Ray aboard as crew. The foursome joined the ARC World Cruise in September in Darwin, Australia for this “leg” to St. Lucia. They say they enjoy rallies, but indicated they like their time sailing individually a little more.
I hooked up with Anthony George today, too. He’s the 32-year-old guy that works on Ascension and is home on leave to visit his 8-year-old son, Teejay. Anthony lives in Thompson’s Hill, but was going to meet me at Rosemary Plain, as directions are impossible to his house. I’ve done well with directions considering most roads do not have street names until trying to drive to Rosemary Plain. I ended up at Anthony’s house by following a shuttle driver--I even got a little lost driving home.
Anthony built his house in 2005 and is in the process of finishing the inside and putting up a wall to prevent further erosion from the front of his property. The only room fully finished is the bathroom, which has a giant bathtub and low-flush toilet. The modern designed kitchen is nearly complete, as well. His 20-year-old girlfriend, Rickie, was there with her niece and Tommy-Lee—a 17-year-old who was also on the RMS. Rickie is Tommy-Lee’s aunt, yet they are only three years apart. It seems that everyone is someone’s aunt, uncle or half-brother on the island, which brings me to another point: free love.
It almost seems a traditional, faithful marriage is taboo on the island. I mentioned this to Rickie after Tommy-Lee explained his family to me. Not one person I have met has only been with one partner, yet Rickie says that the divorce rate on the island is less than 50 percent. I am going to have to follow up with some stats on this.
Another interesting thing on the island is that there are four deaf/mute people that live here. I met one, Calvin, at Anthony’s house. I’d say Calvin is thirty-something with fairer skin than most Saints. He is on the three-day workweek, which is the welfare system here. The government pays people to clean up the island and for other service work. Those on three-day do not get paid unless they work. Calvin works other days as a handyman. Anthony says he is a good worker, but by the time I arrived at half-four, Calvin was drinking beer and Vodka and cokes. He was smashed by half-five.
Apparently, the four deaf/mute (Calvin is only mute) are from different parts of the island and from different families, so there is no explanation for their condition. Anthony said three of the four went to England as part of their special needs education, but the fourth person was a Jehovah Witness and the parents wouldn’t let the child go. Calvin and the others know sign language, but pantomime with others to communicate. Calvin was quite efficient at getting his message across, until he became drunk. The main thing he was communicating was a fantasy that he had been in the military as a sniper. He showed us his camouflage jacket, army green rucksack and tracking an imaginary target with his fingers as if holding a rifle. The others said the only time he has ever left the island was for a field trip with school.
It seems that the community does not ostracize people with special needs or deficiencies; instead they encourage them when appropriate and tolerate any other behavior—similar to the way an extended family would. I noticed this on the RMS with a slow guy named Eugene. Saints cheered and encouraged Eugene more than anyone else on when it was his turn for Deck Quoits.
Once Calvin became too drunk, no one made fun of him. Instead a friend just drove him away—presumably home.
I met Tara, Tom and Tara’s four girlfriends out at dinner. Everyone in the party is 24, or just turning 24. The girls were dressed in black skimpy dresses and stiletto heels and smoking Marlboro Lights. It is obvious these girls are part of the wealthier class on the island, and most studied college in the UK—one is finishing her Master’s. This is the first night they’ve all been out in quite a while, and the first time they’ve met Tom.
After dinner, everyone went to Bayside, a recently opened discothèque near the wharf. The dance club seems to be one of the most popular places on the island for younger people. Typical of many dance clubs, people arrived around 11 p.m. and left well after 1 a.m. Tara’s parents were also there dancing and many yachties were out on the deck socializing with each other.
I met Shane Crowie and plan to interview him next week on what it means to be a Saint. I chose him before I left because of an interview of him after a rock fall incident in August 2008. Watch “Major Rock Fall” at: www.capricorn-studios.com/movies_01.htm. This guy is really funny.
Drinking and driving is a problem on the island and there were several cops in the car park watching people. One guy in a helmet trying to mount a motorcycle fell and dropped his motorcycle. The cops stood where they were and watched him. Several people helped him pick it up and the guy failed in a second attempt to mount the bike. The cops then came over and helped him push it to the side. I don’t know what happened after that.
After the bar closed, half the partygoers walked passed the cops down along the wharf. Tara informed me that this is the “after party.” Her girlfriends said this is where they sit on the ground and sober up before driving home, yet most of them were dancing and started drinking the cold beers Tara bought from the bar. Others were gathered under a tree smoking pot and everyone seemed to have their car radios on competing with other “after partygoers” with the loudest music.
Since there are so many single-lane roads and high cliffs on my route home, I decided it would be prudent for me to go ahead and drive home while people were at the after party.
TDx
Showing posts with label ARC World Cruise. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ARC World Cruise. Show all posts
Friday, 16 January 2009
Thursday, 15 January 2009
Ascension to St Helena via RMS
Hello from the S. Atlantic,
All is well here on the island of St Helena. After my overnight flight to Heathrow, I took a coach to Oxford which is where RAF Brize Norton is located. Another overnight flight landed me 7,000 nm to the south on Ascension Island. I began working immediately, interviewing a Saint who has lived on Ascension for 42 years. I also met Major Block, the U.S. base commander, and expect to interview him on my return transit.
Ascension is an interesting place. It is UK-owned and was used by the RAF during its war with Argentina over the Falkland Islands. Initially, a naval base on Ascension was intended to intercept ships attempting to free Napoleon from St Helena when he was imprisoned on St Helena from 1815-1821.
No one has the right to permanent residency on Ascension, at this time, although attempts have been made by some who’ve lived on the island and raised their family there. The 1,100 people that currently live on the island are employed by either the U.S. Air Force, the RAF or a contracted company called CSR. Some families are allowed to live on the island but this depends on the type and level of job one has. The employer provides housing, which is either a room in the barracks or a home large enough for a small family. About 300 U.S. or British live on the island and the rest are Saints. Despite the island’s function as a base, there are only three U.S. and 10 RAF military personnel, the rest are contractors. A normal wage on the island is 2.50 pounds per hour. Jobs are hard to come by on Ascension and many people apply from St Helena. Like many places, it depends on who you know.
I landed on St Helena Wednesday after a three-day boat ride aboard the last Royal Mail Ship in operation. It was a delightful and very British experience including a 4 p.m. tea everyday. I shot people playing a modified cricket game on the sundeck, which was a ton of fun. Obviously I have never shot this sport, so I was surprised to find how difficult it was to shoot the bowlers—there arms go over their face twice as they pitch (or bowl). I also shot Deck Quiots, which is an ancient sea-faring game where rubber discs are thrown on a shuffleboard type target.
My documentary began on Ascension Island when I met Sally, a 31-year-old who works in the Falklands and was traveling home with her two girls, her sister and her brother for their father’s funeral. Sally hadn’t been home in six years and her girls have never been to the island. Her father passed away on Dec. 26, but they were not able to get a flight and passage on the RMS until Jan 11. It is an expensive trip for her and at a time when money is tight due to Christmas. I shot the funeral today, which was uncomfortable for me. I’d asked Father Alan, the pastor presiding over the service, his advice on shooting the event and he was able to tell me about the processional from the hospital down the street to the church and then asked me to ride with him to the cemetery where they lowered the wooden casket down and grave diggers covered up the casket. After the burial, Sally asked me if I could shoot a few pictures of the family and about 30 people stood by the graveside for a family photo. I was happy to oblige because many will not be back on the island for several years.
I am also shooting Tara who is moving back to the island after five years in the UK. She brought her British boyfriend who has never been to the island before, but is willing to try living here for a minimum of 18 months. The concern is how they will earn a living on the island. Saints returning with exPat spouses/partners is common throughout history on the island, so I think this is important to demonstrate as a sidebar on the documentary Web site.
The third subject I began shooting is Anthony. Anthony lives on Ascension and works as a communications rigger, which means he climbs those 400-foot towers to fix whatever needs to be fixed. He has an 8-year-old son on St Helena and is coming home for a visit. We are traveling back on the same passage, so I will shoot him at his job on Ascension when we return.
I am also looking for more stories and people to interview. There are about 30 yachts in the harbor, which is more than anyone on the island can remember. Some of the boats are here as part of a race from Cape Town. They are having a race in the harbor Saturday that will include any locals wishing to board any of the boats, and I’ve been invited. I plan to shoot some Saints turning winches, etc.
This morning I climbed up and down Jacob’s Ladder, 699 steps. It occurred to me that climbing up one storey is about 30 steps, I think. This means I climbed up more than 23 stories. While this seems a ridiculous thing to do, the view is lovely.
I’ll try to update more later.
With love,
Tiff
All is well here on the island of St Helena. After my overnight flight to Heathrow, I took a coach to Oxford which is where RAF Brize Norton is located. Another overnight flight landed me 7,000 nm to the south on Ascension Island. I began working immediately, interviewing a Saint who has lived on Ascension for 42 years. I also met Major Block, the U.S. base commander, and expect to interview him on my return transit.
Ascension is an interesting place. It is UK-owned and was used by the RAF during its war with Argentina over the Falkland Islands. Initially, a naval base on Ascension was intended to intercept ships attempting to free Napoleon from St Helena when he was imprisoned on St Helena from 1815-1821.
No one has the right to permanent residency on Ascension, at this time, although attempts have been made by some who’ve lived on the island and raised their family there. The 1,100 people that currently live on the island are employed by either the U.S. Air Force, the RAF or a contracted company called CSR. Some families are allowed to live on the island but this depends on the type and level of job one has. The employer provides housing, which is either a room in the barracks or a home large enough for a small family. About 300 U.S. or British live on the island and the rest are Saints. Despite the island’s function as a base, there are only three U.S. and 10 RAF military personnel, the rest are contractors. A normal wage on the island is 2.50 pounds per hour. Jobs are hard to come by on Ascension and many people apply from St Helena. Like many places, it depends on who you know.
I landed on St Helena Wednesday after a three-day boat ride aboard the last Royal Mail Ship in operation. It was a delightful and very British experience including a 4 p.m. tea everyday. I shot people playing a modified cricket game on the sundeck, which was a ton of fun. Obviously I have never shot this sport, so I was surprised to find how difficult it was to shoot the bowlers—there arms go over their face twice as they pitch (or bowl). I also shot Deck Quiots, which is an ancient sea-faring game where rubber discs are thrown on a shuffleboard type target.
My documentary began on Ascension Island when I met Sally, a 31-year-old who works in the Falklands and was traveling home with her two girls, her sister and her brother for their father’s funeral. Sally hadn’t been home in six years and her girls have never been to the island. Her father passed away on Dec. 26, but they were not able to get a flight and passage on the RMS until Jan 11. It is an expensive trip for her and at a time when money is tight due to Christmas. I shot the funeral today, which was uncomfortable for me. I’d asked Father Alan, the pastor presiding over the service, his advice on shooting the event and he was able to tell me about the processional from the hospital down the street to the church and then asked me to ride with him to the cemetery where they lowered the wooden casket down and grave diggers covered up the casket. After the burial, Sally asked me if I could shoot a few pictures of the family and about 30 people stood by the graveside for a family photo. I was happy to oblige because many will not be back on the island for several years.
I am also shooting Tara who is moving back to the island after five years in the UK. She brought her British boyfriend who has never been to the island before, but is willing to try living here for a minimum of 18 months. The concern is how they will earn a living on the island. Saints returning with exPat spouses/partners is common throughout history on the island, so I think this is important to demonstrate as a sidebar on the documentary Web site.
The third subject I began shooting is Anthony. Anthony lives on Ascension and works as a communications rigger, which means he climbs those 400-foot towers to fix whatever needs to be fixed. He has an 8-year-old son on St Helena and is coming home for a visit. We are traveling back on the same passage, so I will shoot him at his job on Ascension when we return.
I am also looking for more stories and people to interview. There are about 30 yachts in the harbor, which is more than anyone on the island can remember. Some of the boats are here as part of a race from Cape Town. They are having a race in the harbor Saturday that will include any locals wishing to board any of the boats, and I’ve been invited. I plan to shoot some Saints turning winches, etc.
This morning I climbed up and down Jacob’s Ladder, 699 steps. It occurred to me that climbing up one storey is about 30 steps, I think. This means I climbed up more than 23 stories. While this seems a ridiculous thing to do, the view is lovely.
I’ll try to update more later.
With love,
Tiff
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